Friday, March 18, 2011

Those Romans Could Really Build an Aqueduct

Dear Reader,

Today I'd like to talk about doing the unusual during travel; little out of the ordinary things that make travel so special, at least to me and my husband. Not all of it is recommended or even er, um, legal, but it sure was fun.

I'm sure eveyrone has seen a photo or two of a Roman aqueduct but until you've seen one up close and personal you can't begin to grasp the enormity and magnificence of the actual structure. I've had personal experiences with two that are still standing strong and am still awe struck.

One of the longest and best preserved aqueducts in the world is called the Pont du Gard in Provence, France. The remaining portion that still stands is over 1 mile long but originally it was over 30 miles long. This thing stands about 20-30 stories above the Rhone River. As you might notice, I'm guessing the height because it was scary up there and the people below looked like ants so whatever height that makes it is how high it is!

The first time we visited the Pont du Gard was on an earlier trip to France and on our first visit to Provence. For some reason it was raining really hard but I can't remember the time of year. That didn't stop us from climbing it. No way. If there's something in Europe to be climbed, we must and have duty to climb it.

Back in those days it was allowed. First you enter on the inside of the aqueduct. Yes, there is a huge interior to the structure tall enough for John, who is 6'5" tall, to stand straight up. I'd say it was at least 6 feet wide and still had a small stream of water running through it, probably because of the rain and the holes in the ceiling. That's how we got to the top. John hoisted me up through a hole in the ceiling and then pulled himself up and we walked precariously along the top, feet spread to avoid getting them soaked.

There were a few other people walking along the top so we figured it was safe. In fact, other than a lack of railing and the certain death should one fall, it felt very safe. When I looked down at the tiny beach below and the river, I noticed a guy diving in wearing his speedo. That's so very European that I had to laugh.

A few years ago on another visit to Provence it was definitely close to summertime and very hot. We had been doing a driving trip all day visiting other ruins and I had the great idea that it would be fun to go swimming in the Rhone River to cool off and the best part was that we decided to do it underneath the Pont du Gard. I guess I was still thinking of that guy in the speedo. To our surprise, there were lots of cars lined up and down the highway leading to the sight including campers so we had to hike a good distance carrying our towels and swimsuits to get there but it was definitely worth it!

The beach was rocky and very crowded with lots of locals and their children having picnics and drinking wine and swimming and playing with their dogs. It was actually a very homey and charming sight to see. We used a public toilet to change in and picked our spot on the rocks and took the plunge into the river. The water was cold but felt great in the heat and the river was extremely calm there. In fact, it was shallow, which may be why it's such a popular swimming spot.

Up over our heads shining in the sunlight was the spectacular Pont du Gard in all of its glory. John and I floated on our backs underneath it's enormous shadow and just speculated on how many men and how long it took to build. Kids were jumping off of rocks from high above us into the shallow water right next to us. I remember once being so brave. But of course, no one dared to jump from the aqueduct itself. That is just too high. Besides, the public is no longer allowed to climb it. I guess perhaps someone did fall.

The beauty of that day is still with me and the best part is, it was free. Yes, you can swim underneath an ancient acqueduct and enjoy the river and beach and its facilities for free. You can't beat that.

Another great Roman aqueduct is in Segovia, Spain. I have no idea anymore how long it is but it is one of the most amazing sights I have ever seen in my life because it extends for miles outside of the city.

Segovia is up on the great plain of Spain and is a former royal capital of the once kingdom of Aragon. There sits one of the prettiest and most picturesque castles I've ever seen. It looks very much like the Disney castle at the original Disneyland.This was the home of the great Isabella of Spain. It stands up on top of the mountain, as was the custom for defensive purposes and is visible for miles along with the amazing Roman aqueduct.

As we were approaching Segovia by car we watched the castle and the aqueduct for miles as they loomed larger and larger. The sun was low in the sky and their golden colors were just spectacular. Everything in Segovia is made out of a yellow stone including the aqueduct. Perhaps it was just the time of day but the sight was magical.

We toured the castle, of course, and John misbehaved and sat in Ferdinand's throne when no one was looking. I have the picture to prove it. Then we went off to a closer look at the aqueduct.

This aqueduct was much more narrow than the Pont du Gard, only about two feet wide. There was no way to get inside of it either. Down below instead of a river was a busy 4 lane street with cars zooming in and out underneath the aqueduct's arches. We saw a guy up on top of the aqueduct very carefully walking across it. So, of course, John and I decided to give it a try. This one was easy to climb up on because it went right into the hillside where we were standing. But I'm telling you now, don't try this! It was very scary. There are no railings of course because people aren't even supposed to be up there, and it was narrow with a small stream of water running through it. Once small slip and we would have ended up a hood ornament on a very flat compact car or two. It's a beautiful thing though from below with it's double arches and I do highly recommend seeing it.

Next time you see an old building dating back to the 19th or early 20th century or even the old colonial buildings of Williamsburg, Virginia and are impressed, think about the Romans and what they accomplished. And then hop on a plane and go see for yourself. You will be greatly rewarded and also get a sense of how short our country and our modern life has been in existence compared to these great structures. It puts everything into perspective.

Adios Amigos!

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